Crochet Love Bug | Jen Hayes Creations (2024)

What’s cuter than one Crochet Love Bug? Two Crochet Love Bugs (or more)! Seriously, my mind has gone wild thinking of all the fun ways that this pattern can be personalized and I’m so excited to see the ideas that you’ll come up with and what colors you’ll use for your bugs!

Read on to learn more about my inspiration and yarn choice for the Crochet Love Bug or scroll down to the bottom to find the free pattern.

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The Inspiration

Let’s spread all the handmade love we can in the world! The Crochet Love Bug is perfect for showing you care on Valentine’s Day, but spreading handmade love with a Crochet Love Bug need not be limited to one single day. Let’s spread the love of handmade care every day!

As I was thinking about which of my design ideas I wanted to bring to life most this month, I landed on two different ideas. One big and one small.

I actually started both projects, but let’s just say that the big fella is going to need a bit more time to come together the way that I want him to. Hopefully, he’ll be ready by Christmas, lol. Stay tuned!

But in all seriousness, as a lot of unexpected life things started happening and time became more crunched to get the patterns out to you, I knew that I had to set some realistic expectations for myself and allow for grace and sanity, so this smaller project was the way to go.

And I love how it turned out! I must say that I’m in love with the various options available in the pattern that will allow you to potentially expand upon your crochet skills (especially if you’re a beginner).

This includes a bit of tapestry crochet when making the heart on the body and the optional patterned colorwork in the wings. I also love the look of the knotted arms and legs.

Fun patterns and great colors incorporated into a nature-inspired creature always make my heart sing and I hope that it does the same for you! I’m excited to see how you’ll personalize your Love Bug!

The Yarn

The Crochet Love Bug pattern uses Yarnspiration Caron Simply Soft yarn. It is a medium, size 4, lighter worsted yarn that, as its name implies, is super soft. It also has a bit of a sheen to it and comes in a variety of colors.

The solid colors come in skeins that are 6 oz / 170 g, approximately 315 yards / 288 m. It is also available in tweeds, heathers, speckles, and a variety of mixed, variegated colors. These too are gorgeous options, the yardage varying according to the chosen style.

The biggest complaint that I hear about Caron Simply Soft yarn is that it can have a tendency to split. Honestly, I must agree that this can be the case.

When I first started using the yarn I had more trouble than I do now. Once I learned how my hook and crochet style interacted with the yarn I rarely have this issue.

In fact, when it comes to acrylic yarns it has become one of my go-to yarns over the years for making amigurumi.

The color options, especially for this design, are fantastic. If sticking to the pinks, reds, and purples typically associated with Valentine’s Day there are numerous complimentary options that can be paired together.

However, remember that the Crochet Love Bug is something that can be given year-round as a way to show someone that you’re thinking of them and need not be limited to specific colors. In fact, this may be a really fun way to use up some of those scraps!

Substitutions. Any brand of worsted weight acrylic yarn should work well for making the Crochet Love Bug but note that due to variations among brands that the finished size of the Crochet Love Bug may vary slightly. Also note, if mixing yarn brands, it’s important to check that the thickness of the yarns are the same to ensure consistency in stitching.

As always, I’d love to see/hear about your experiences with making the design and the products you chose to use. Tag me on social media @jenhayescreations to share!

The Pattern

Difficulty

Advanced Beginner

Materials

For Both Love Bugs

• Crochet Hook, Size E/4 (3.5 mm)
• Stitch Marker(s)
• Scissors
• Poly-fil Stuffing
• Tapestry needle
• Pins
• Safety eyes, 10 mm
• Chopstick, dowel, or something similar to help with stuffing small parts
• Red Crayon, Blush, or Acrylic Paint (optional)

Striped Legs Love Bug

• Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 315 yds/288 m, 6 oz/170 g), Color (A) Fuschia, used approx. 105 yds/96 m, Color (B) Strawberry, used approx. 20 yds/18 m, Color (C) Off White, used approx. 83 yds/76 m
• Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 250 yds/228 m, 5 oz/141 g), Color (D) Charcoal Heather, used approx. 34 yds/31 m

Solid Legs Love Bug

• Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 315 yds/288 m, 6 oz/170 g), Color (A) Purple, used approx. 115 yds/105 m, Color (B) Blackberry, used approx. 62 yds/57 m, Color (C) Off White, used approx. 57 yds/52 m
• Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 250 yds/228 m, 5 oz/141 g), Color (D) Charcoal Heather (optional for embroidering the face), used approx. 1 yds/0.9 m

Gauge

Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) the first 6 rounds of the body measure approximately 2 ¼ inches (5.72 cm) in diameter.

FinishedMeasurements

Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) the Crochet Love Bug measures approximately 9 inches (23 cm) tall not including the legs or the antennae. Including these, it is approximately 13 inches (33 cm) tall.

Design Notes

• The pattern is written in English using US crochet terminology.
• The pattern is written primarily in continuous rounds, it will be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and move it up at the start of each additional round.The antenna is worked in Rows.
• At the end of each round/row, the number of stitches for completion is noted in parentheses.
• Further design notes, options, and tips will be provided throughout the pattern to help aid in construction.
• Color changes in the pattern should be made during the last step of the stitch prior to the noted color change throughout the pattern. To help eliminate the stair-step/jogging that occurs when changing colors a sl st can be used to replace the first st of the round (it counts as the first st and should be worked into in the following round).
• Caution! If using safety eyes, take into consideration who will be using the item. The use of safety eyes is not recommended for children under the age of three or for those prone to putting things in their mouth as they may cause a choking hazard. Crocheted or hand embroidered eyes are a great alternative!

Abbreviations/Stitches Used

• back bar of the ch – horizontal bar on the backside of a ch
• BLO – work in the back loops only
• bo – Bobble (described below under special stitches)
• ch – Chain
• dc – double crochet
• hdc – half double crochet
• invisible finish (optional)
• picot – see special stitches
• Rnd(s) – Round(s)
• Row(s) – Row(s)
• sc – Single crochet (including the standing sc)
• sc2tog – Single crochet 2 stitches together (use an invisible decrease unless otherwise noted)
• sl st – Slip stitch
• st(s) – Stitch(s)
• [ ] / ( ) – Work instructions between brackets as many times as directed
• magic circle/adjustable ring

Special Stitches

Bobble (bo): A 5dcbo (five double crochet bobble) is used in this pattern. Essentially it’s 5 half-finished double crochets worked all in the same stitch that are joined at the end as one stitch, creating a puffy stitch.

To create a 5dcbo

With the working loop on the hook:

1. Yarn over, insert hook into the next stitch,
2. Yarn over and pull up a loop (three loops on the hook),
3. Yarn over and pull through two loops (one leg made, two loops on the hook),
4. Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
5. Yarn over and pull up a loop (four loops on the hook)
6. Yarn over and pull through two loops (two legs made, three loops on the hook),
7. Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
8. Yarn over and pull up a loop (five loops on the hook)
9. Yarn over and pull through two loops (three legs made, four loops on the hook),
10. Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
11. Yarn over and pull up a loop (six loops on the hook)
12. Yarn over and pull through two loops (four legs made, five loops on the hook),
13. Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
14. Yarn over and pull up a loop (seven loops on the hook)
15. Yarn over and pull through two loops (two legs made, six loops on the hook),
16. Yarn over and pull through all six loops. (5dcbo completed)

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Body and Head

>Design Note: The body and head are worked as one piece starting at the bottom of the body and working to the top of the head.

Body

Using Color (A)

The body is all worked in the BLO.

• Rnd 1: 6sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (24sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (30sts)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (36sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (42sts)
• Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (48sts)
• Rnd 9: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (54sts)
• Rnds 10-12: Sc in each st around. (54sts for 3 Rnds)

>Design Note: Over the next 13 Rounds a heart will be made into the body. Carry Color (A) throughout all the Rnds, never cutting the yarn. When using Color (B), which will create the heart, carry it through the Rnd only as long as it is necessary to switch back to it within that same Rnd, and then cut it for that Rnd. This will eliminate additional bulk and colors showing through on other parts of the body. Weave in or knot the ends of the heart as the pattern progresses as it will be difficult to reach them later.

• Rnd 13: Color (A): Sc in the next 27sts, Color (B): sc in the next st, Color (A): sc in the next 26sts. (54sts)
• Rnd 14: Color (A): Sc in the next 26sts, Color (B): sc in the next 3sts, Color (A): sc in the next 25sts. (54sts)
• Rnd 15: Color (A): Sc in the next 25sts, Color (B): sc in the next 5sts, Color (A): sc in the next 24sts. (54sts)
• Rnd 16: Color (A): Sc in the next 24sts, Color (B): sc in the next 7sts, Color (A): sc in the next 23sts. (54sts)
• Rnd 17: Color (A): Sc in the next 23sts, Color (B): sc in the next 9sts, Color (A): sc in the next 22sts. (54sts)
• Rnd 18: Color (A): Sc in the next 22sts, Color (B): sc in the next 11sts, Color (A): sc in the next 21sts. (54sts)
• Rnds 19-22: Color (A): Sc in the next 21sts, Color (B): sc in the next 13sts, Color (A): sc in the next 20sts. (54sts for 4 Rnds)
• Rnd 23: Color (A): Sc in the next 21sts, Color (B): sc in the next 6sts, Color (A): sc in the next st, Color (B): sc in the next 6sts, Color (A): Sc in the next 20sts. (54sts)
• Rnd 24: Color (A): Sc in the next 22sts, Color (B): sc in the next 4sts, Color (A): sc in the next 3sts, Color (B): sc in the next 4sts, Color (A): Sc in the next 21sts. (54sts)
• Rnd 25: Color (A): Sc in the next 23sts, Color (B): sc in the next 2sts, Color (A): sc in the next 5sts, Color (B): sc in the next 2sts, Color (A): Sc in the next 22sts. (54sts)
• Rnd 26: Sc in each st around (54sts)

Firmly stuff and shape the body and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.

>Design Tip: Use a regular sc decrease when working in the BLO.

• Rnd 27: [Sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (48sts)
• Rnd 28: [Sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (42sts)
• Rnd 29: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (36sts)
• Rnd 30: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (30sts)
• Rnd 31: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (24sts)
• Rnd 32: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (18sts)

>Design Note: In the next section the head will be added to the body as one piece.

Head

For the head sc in both loops.

Switch to Color (C)

• Rnd 33: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (24sts)
• Rnd 34: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (30sts)
• Rnd 35: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (36sts)
• Rnd 36: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (42sts)
• Rnd 37: [Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (48sts)
• Rnd 38: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (54sts)
• Rnd 39: [Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (60sts)
• Rnd 40: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (66sts)
• Rnds 41-45: Sc in each st around. (66sts for 5 Rnds)

>Design Note: In the next Rnd a bobble stitch is made for the nose. When making the bobble ensure that it is centered on the front of the face in relation to the heart that is on the body. Make adjustments if necessary to have it be in the center. The rest of the stitches in the round are sc.

• Rnd 46: Sc in the next 37sts, Using Color (B): bo in the next st, Switch back to Color (C): sc in the next 28sts. (66sts)
• Rnds 47-51: Sc in each st around. (66sts for 5 Rnds)

Insert the safety eyes. Suggested placement is centered above the nose between Rnds 48 and 49 approximately 9sts apart. Firmly stuff and shape the head and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.

• Rnd 52: [Sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (60sts)
• Rnd 53: [Sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (54sts)
• Rnd 54: [Sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (48sts)
• Rnd 55: [Sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (42sts)
• Rnd 56: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (36sts)
• Rnd 57: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (30sts)
• Rnd 58: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (24sts)
• Rnd 59: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 60: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 61: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)

Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail to close up the hole. Close the hole with a tapestry needle stitching only through the front loops until the hole pulls nicely closed, secure, and weave in the end.

Add the Mouth and Eyebrows

(Optional)

>Design Note: The face can be embroidered in a variety of ways. One suggestion is given below. Feel free to experiment with additional options.

Using Color (D) and a tapestry needle.

• Mouth: Stitch a straight line centered under the nose between about Rnd 43 and 44 approximately 4sts long.
• Eyebrows: Stitch the eyebrows starting about one Rnd above the eyes at about the top middle of the eye going down at a diagonal of about 1 Rnd towards the sides of the head(see pictures of the Striped Legged Love Bug if needed).

Arms

Make 2

The arms are worked in stripes switching colors every 2 Rnds. Start with Color (D) and then switch to Color (C). It isn’t necessary to cut the color each time. Simply drop and pick up the color again at the indicated color change. The arms are not stuffed.

>Design Tip: (optional) To eliminate jogging when changing colors make the first st of the round a sl st (counts as a st) instead of a sc on the Rnds where the color changes. Leave the other Rnds with a regular sc.

>Design Option(s): Don’t like the stripes? The arms can be worked in a single color or larger blocks of color.

>Design Note: Working the arms in the solid color they came out to be about 4 Rnds longer than the striped version for some reason (perhaps the color changes?). Both options look fine, but for reference, the original striped version is approximately 7 inches (17.8 cm) long before making the knot. Make adjustments if desired.

• Rnd 1: 5sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (5sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 5sc in 2nd chain from hook. (5sts)
• Rnds 2-38: Sc in each st around. (5sts for 37 Rnds)
• Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail of Color (D) for stitching the arm to the body. Cut Color (C) and stuff the tail inside the arm.
• Tie a tight knot in the bottom (closed portion) of the arm, leaving the bottom 4 Rnds sticking out as the “hand.”

Legs

Make 2

The legs are worked in stripes switching colors every 2 Rnds. Start with Color (D) and then switch to Color (C). It isn’t necessary to cut the color each time. Simply drop and pick up the color again at the indicated color change. The legs are not stuffed.

>Design Tip: (optional) To eliminate jogging when changing colors make the first st of the round a sl st (counts as a st) instead of a sc on those Rnds where the color changes. Leave the other Rnds with a regular sc.

>Design Option(s): Don’t like the stripes? The legs can be worked in a single color or larger blocks of color.

>Design Note: Working the legs in the solid color they came out to be about 4 Rnds longer than the striped version for some reason (perhaps the color changes?). Both options look fine, but for reference, the original striped version is approximately 6.25 inches (15.9 cm) before making the knot. Make adjustments if desired.

• Rnd 1: 5sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (5sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 5sc in 2nd chain from hook. (5sts)
• Rnds 2-34: Sc in each st around. (5sts for 33 Rnds)
• Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail of Color (D) for stitching the leg to the body. Cut Color (C) and stuff the tail inside the leg.
• Rnd 1: 5sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (5sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 5sc in 2nd chain from hook. (5sts)
• Rnds 2-38: Sc in each st around. (5sts for 37 Rnds)
• Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail of Color (D) for stitching the arm to the body. Cut Color (C) and stuff the tail inside the arm.
• Tie a tight knot in the bottom (closed portion) of the foot, leaving the bottom 4 Rnds sticking out as the “foot.”

Wings

>Design Note: The wing pattern is written to have three different style options; a checkered version, a striped version, and a solid version (not pictured). Each of the variations will start and finish the same. During Rnds 7-18 the pattern depicts the directions needed to obtain each style.

Make 2

The wings are not stuffed.

For All Wing Styles

Using Color (B) – (for the solid colored wings, use the color of choice)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (9sts)
• Rnd 3: Sc in each st around. (9sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (15sts)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (18sts)

Checkered Wings

>Design Note: In the next 12 Rnds a checkered pattern will be created by switching between two colors. In Rnd 7 cut Color (B) to switch to Color (D) and continue with the pattern as directed until Color (C) is added into the design. Carry both of these colors throughout this portion of the design, working over the non-working yarn and picking it up when indicated.Once Rnd 19 is reached the color will switch again and both Color (C) and Color (D) can be cut.

• Rnds 7-9: [Color (D): Sc in the next 3sts Color (C): sc in the next 3sts.] repeat around. (18sts for 3 Rnds)
• Rnds 10-12: [Color (C): Sc in the next 3sts Color (D): sc in the next 3sts.] repeat around. (18sts for 3 Rnds)
• Rnds 13-15: [Color (D): Sc in the next 3sts Color (C): sc in the next 3sts.] repeat around. (18sts for 3 Rnds)
• Rnds 16-18: [Color (C): Sc in the next 3sts Color (D): sc in the next 3sts.] repeat around. (18sts for 3 Rnds)
• See Rnds 19-22 below.

Striped Wings

>Design Note: In the next 12 Rnds a striped pattern will be created. The colors can either be cut after each color change or dropped and picked up when needed at the next color change leaving small floats on the back of the work.

• Rnds 7-9: Color (A): Sc in each st around. (18sts for 3 Rnds)
• Rnds 10-12: Color (B): Sc in each st around. (18sts for 3 Rnds)
• Rnds 13-15: Color (A): Sc in each st around. (18sts for 3 Rnds)
• Rnds 16-18: Color (B): Sc in each st around. (18sts for 3 Rnds)
• See Rnds 19-22 below.

Solid Wings

• Rnds 7-18: Using Color of Choice: Sc in each st around. (18sts for 12 Rnds)
• See Rnds 19-22 below.

For All Wing Styles

Switch to Color (A) – (for the solid colored wings continue in the color of choice)

• Rnd 19: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 3 times. (15sts)
• Rnd 20: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 3 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 21: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 3 times. (9sts)
• Rnd 22: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 3 times. (6sts)
• Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail to close up the hole. Close the hole with a tapestry needle stitching only through the front loops until the hole pulls nicely closed, secure leaving the rest of the tail to stitch the wing to the body.
• Flatten the wings so that the most pleasing portion of the design faces out once attached to the body.

Hat

Make 1

Using Color (A)

>Design Note: Picot = Ch2, sl st in the back bar of the 2nd ch from the hook. Picot complete.

• Rnd 1: 6sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (24sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (30sts)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (36sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (42sts)
• Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (48sts)
• Rnd 9: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (54sts)
• Rnd 10: [Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (60sts)
• Rnd 11: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (66sts)
• Rnds 12-21: Sc in each st around. (66sts for 10 Rnds)
• Rnd 22: Sc in the next 30sts, sc2tog, hdc in the next st, [dc, picot, dc] in the next st, hdc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 29 sts. (65sts + picot)
• Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail to stitch the hat to the head. >Design Option: The hat can also be left as is so that it is removable. In this case using an invisible finish may be desired instead of the sl st. Weave in the ends.

Antenna

Make 2

Using Color (D) OR (B)

• Ch 8
• Row 1: Working in the back bars of the ch: Dc in the 2nd ch from the hook, hdc in the next 3ch, sc in the next 3ch. (7sts)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the antennae to the hat. Weave in the starting tail.

Assembly

Pin all the pieces together to determine the desired placement for the entire Crochet Love Bug and stitch securely into place.

General placement and stitching suggestions:

• Attach the Antennae to the Hat: Stitch the antennae at about Rnd 13 of the hat, centered with the front point of the hat, approximately 9sts apart.
• Attach the Hat to the Head: Place the hat so that the middle point is centered between the eyesand the nose with the back of the hat tilting towards the back of the neck leaving approximately two Rnds of the head exposed. Using the tail, invisibly tack the hat in several places between about Rnd 20 and 21 of the hat, ensuring that it will remain securely attached. Alternatively, the hat can be left unstitched and removable.

• Attach the Wings: Attach the wings to the center back of the body approximately 4 Rnds down from the top of the body, extending out at the desired angle. When stitching, attach the wings to the body along the edges of the top 5 Rnds of the wing (the “downward V” outlined in the image with yellow tipped pins). Remember to look at the Crochet Love Bug from both the back and the front to determine the desired overall placement and look for the wings.
• Attach the Arms: Attach the arms approximately 3 Rnds down from the top of the body on either side. With the hands facing forward, stitch along the top of the arm so that the arm lies flat against the body.
• Attach the Legs: Attach the legs on the bottom center of the body with the inside of each of the legs resting at approximately Rnd 2 of the body, the feet facing forward.
• Adding Coloring to the Cheeks: (optional) Color can be added to the cheeks using a crayon to draw them on (a red crayon was used in this project) or a bit of blush or acrylic paint applied with a q-tip or brush.

Looking for more great patterns?

These may be of interest! 1. Crochet Heart Pillow 2. Small Animal Collection Giraffe 3. Ode to Spring Bobble Scarf

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Copyright and Use Policy

This pattern and its photos are copyright of Jennifer Hayes (Jen Hayes Creations) and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not copy, sell, republish, distribute, or translate my patterns, photos, or tutorials in part or whole. Share this pattern on social media by using the social sharing buttons or a link to the pattern. You are welcome to sell any finished items produced from this pattern. Please credit Jen Hayes Creations as the designer and include a link to the pattern listing if selling the finished piece online. Thank you!